Les Bonne Boulangeries

Chausson au pomme may be one of my 25 TOP viennoiseries/pastires to munch on in Paris...

I had my 1st chausson from Du Pain et des Idees yesterday (eaten dans le rue ahem).

Normalment a chausson is full of apple compote so you can feel slightly less guilty eating it. But Du Pains has a whole slice of apple baked inside with the skin left on! Quelle surprise and trés delish. This is a chausson au pomme not to be missed.

Trish Deseine is a big fan of DPEDI and includes them in her top 5 cake stops in Paris.

She also raves about the antique interior decor.

Me, I'm nuts for their FAB vintage tin collection in the windows

Yum

David Lebovitz' Paris Pastry lists DPEDI in his best Paris TOP 25. Plus you don't need internet to access most of his info. I found out wandering on rue Yves Toudic last Sunday hoping to buy a croissant etc. I also found out Du Pain is closed on Saturdays and Sundays Thanks to David's app.

It was dear Judy and spouse who told me there was a terrific boulangerie around the corner from their hotel at Republique when I delivered their anniversary in Paris portrait.

I hit on boulangerie Aux Peches Normands also on rue Yves Toudic yesterday.

They even have a tiny cafe in the back for your petit Dejeuner.

Along with all the usual suspects they have many Normande specialties

These criss-cross apple tartes were all over Rouen when I visited in September.

Both of these delightful boulangerie are on either end of rue Yves Toudic. Clever Agnes B. has two old fashioned bakers posted outside their shop as a clue to keep walking. You will be rewarded. At least that's what I think...

I was pleased as punch to see David lists Au 140 on my home turf in his Top 25.

I go here all the time and there is ALWAYS a line.

They have won best baguette and best croissant so no wonder...

They always have the latest seasonal fruit in a tarte planted in the window. This is why the Paris boulangerie must not be missed. Patisseries are for elaborate gateaux. But for your basic seasonal fruit tarte head to any boulangerie SVP.

My chausson au pomme was terrific but now I'm mad for the baked apple slice at Du Pain. By the way Trish Deseine likes Au 140 too. Almost all  boulangeries have illustrations of bakers and croissants on their bags which I find endearing and highly collectable even when besmirched with butter stains...

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Caramels at Le Bonbon au Palais

On Wednesday I needed a pick me up.

Is there a better place than Le Bonbon au Palais when your spirits need raising? 19, rue Monge 75005

Plus it turns out Le Bonbon is a one-stop-shop for a vast variety of caramels. How did I miss this? Go spoil yourself.

I caught owner Georges Marques in the midst of giving a lecon on caramel lollipops. I did not know that the very best sucettes/lollies, Les Niniches come from the Quiberon in Brittany. How did I miss this?

Georges is a big fan of Les Caramels d'Isigny.

"Normandy has the best butter you know", he told me.

Then of course there are the caramels from Brittany where the fabulous sel de Guerande is harvested. Georges reminded me that Henri Le Roux invented this heavenly sauce, caramel au beurre sale, in 1977. Did you know that 'soft' caramels are the hot trend these days? I suppose it is nice to keep all your teeth in your mouth. How thoughtful of the confiseries. Georges prefers the traditional harder/dur caramels but offers both in his shop.

The newest kid on the block at Le Bonbon au Palais - caramel au beurre salé guimauves/marshmallows. Woo woo

I'm a fan of these because you can buy just one and get 4 bites out of it. They're an 1 1/2" square but they do not come from Caramel land in the North West (Brittany or Normandy) sadly.

I was eager to try out this creme de Caramel a la Fleur de sel from Breizh /Brittany (a hotbed of crepes and caramel). I must go there soon!

Back in the reseach lab this tasty sauce passed the 'Standing Spoon' test with flying colors. Not a good thing it turns out. I prefer my sauce liquidy like Le Roux' (sans Almonds) or Frederic Cassel's.

Here's something I haven't seen before - nougat CBS!?

La piece de resistance in Georges eyes is this well kept secret caramel of Nevers, Le Negus.

Surprisingly, it's a hard candy. But let it rest in your mouth. Once the outer shell dissolves, inside awaits a chunk of very soft out-of-this-world caramel. TDF (to die for).

The tin is traditional old French candy style and worth hanging on to (designed in 1904). You'll only find this candy at 2-3 places in Paris by the way. I dated a guy from Nevers for 2 1/2 years in NYC and he never once mentioned this candy from his home town. I'm making up for lost time hanging out at Le Bonbon surely...

Do visit French candy websites online. Every single one of them has a 'historie' tab giving you loads of fun info on how they started, where and when like Maison Armorine.

Les Caramels d'Isigny has this fab map of all the caramels and flavors in France. An essential reference for caramel lovers don't you think? They say Arabs invented caramel in the year 1000. Who knew?

If caramels are not your thing I'm sure Georges will find something else for you to taste like these dents de l'ours/ or bears teeth - pistachio and melon marzipan with a chocolate almond on top.

Next week the Salon du Chocolat opens on Wednesday at Porte de Versailles. Georges is head of the new Forum de la Confiserie at the show - a separate floor on the rez-de chausée. Please stop by and say Bonjour if you go (stand E1).

I shall be coloring my hair caramel au beurre sale especially for the show. Why not? If you can't make it to the Salon please stop by Le Bonbon. Say you're from PB and you'll get extra tastes I bet ;))

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"Reflections on a Paris Left Behind"

I live a block away from the Buttes-Chaumont park in the 19th arrondissement.

I've been walking through the park about 3-4 times a week the past 4  months enroute to the pool. It's a constant source of delight and serenity.

When I read this paragraph in Sunday's New York Times story on Paris by soon departing editor, Steven Erlanger I took umbrage. Deep umbrage.

How come I've never encountered these gangs he refers to in my walks through the park?

Have I just been lucky?

Or has he been supremely unlucky..?

I have seen plenty of people strolling,

And 'footing'/jogging

No one has come close to running me down on their bike. It's not allowed in the park.

Quite a few things are not allowed at Buttes-Chaumont Parc.

Like walking on the grass in some areas.

But in other areas kids are having a ball.

Sunbathers and picnickers all summer long were having a ball too.

Plenty of readers don't seem threatened by these 'gangs' Erlanger refers to.

This is my favorite place in the Buttes - a hidden grotto. The park is completely man-made (opened April 1, 1867) and the 6th biggest in Paris among some 600 parks.

A wonderful waterfall...

And babbling brook...

Instant serenity.

It's true I've only walked through about a 1/3 of the Buttes-Chaumont so perhaps I've missed these threatening, warring gangs Erlanger writes of. Or perhaps he's wrong on this point. Such a damning sentence and read by millions of readers makes me want to "get up and go to the window and shout,

"I'M MAD AS HELL AND I'M NOT GOING TO TAKE THIS ANYMORE!" 

If this one sentence can be so wrong what about all the other negative points Erlanger makes about Paris? Sure there is still dog poop on the streets but it's so much cleaner than it was years ago. In the 19th arr. the streets are sluiced down TWO TIMES A DAY - at 7 am and 9 pm at night. I never saw this in New York.

I do agree, after living here just 10 months, Paris is not the romantic haven I previously envisioned. For me it's a family-oriented town. There are so many kids in this town that it changes the tenor of a place, but in such a delightful way. Plus kids under 12 get into most events free here. Thusly creating the future museum-goers and art lovers Erlanger complains of. By the way Erlanger makes no mention of the 36 fabulous pools in Paris. My pool even has a skating rink. If you've been lucky enough to be a guest in Paris for five years, couldn't you leave more graciously without all this whinging?

Hmph to you Steven Erlanger.

OK, now I'll go back to painting pastries and get off my soapbox.

Bonne Journee!

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